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Choeng Doi Distillery

Why pH Matters in Sugarcane Fermentation

  • Jun 4
  • 12 min read

Updated: Jul 6

Two fermentations can begin with the same ingredient: freshly pressed sugarcane, the same commercial yeast and the same ambient temperature, and still arrive at entirely different results. One finishes clean, dry and efficiently within three or four days. The other slows early, stalls somewhere in the middle, and leaves a meaningful share of sugar unconverted. Ask most distillers what went wrong and the conversation usually turns to sugar content, yeast health or fermentation temperature. Rarely does it turn to pH, yet pH is often the variable doing the most work.

In sugarcane fermentation specifically, pH is not a background reading taken for the sake of record keeping. It is one of the primary forces determining which microorganisms dominate the fermentation, how quickly the process proceeds, and whether it completes at all. This matters more for cane juice than for most other fermentable substrates, because fresh sugarcane juice behaves in ways that grain mashes and grape musts do not.

What follows draws on production data gathered across several harvest seasons of sugarcane fermentation at our distillery in Chiang Dao, set alongside the wider body of research on cachaça and agricultural rum production, where fresh cane juice fermentation has been studied more closely than almost anywhere else in the world.


What pH Actually Governs

pH is not simply a number confirming that fermentation is underway. It defines the chemical environment inside the fermenter, and that environment determines which organisms can operate and how efficiently they do so.

Four things are directly governed by pH: the survival and metabolic activity of the yeast, the degree to which competing bacteria are able to establish themselves, the overall speed of fermentation, and the range of flavour compounds the fermentation is capable of producing. Sugar is the raw material and yeast is the primary converter, but pH decides the terms under which that conversion happens. Fermentation is better understood as a managed ecosystem than as a simple chemical reaction, and pH is one of the conditions deciding which organisms within that ecosystem are favoured.


Why Sugarcane Juice Behaves Differently

Grain mashes and grape musts arrive at the fermenter with a measure of natural stability. Grape must carries tartaric and malic acid in concentrations that give it meaningful buffering capacity, and grain mashes are typically cooked, which reduces the microbial load before yeast is pitched. Fresh sugarcane juice has neither advantage.

Cane juice is nutrient rich, high in directly fermentable sugars, populated from the moment of extraction with wild yeast and bacteria carried in from the field and the crushing equipment, and comparatively poor at resisting changes in pH. Research on sugarcane juice composition has shown it typically leaves the crusher above pH 4.6, with high water activity and a sugar content that supports rapid growth of almost any organism present, wanted or not. Within hours of extraction it is already fermenting, well before a distiller has the chance to pitch a chosen strain.

That combination, sugar rich, microbially active and only weakly buffered, is what makes cane juice fermentation faster and more volatile than fermentation from cooked or naturally acidic substrates. It also means the window for shaping the fermentation is narrower. Decisions made, or missed, in the first twelve to eighteen hours tend to determine how the rest of the fermentation behaves.



Why pH Falls So Rapidly

The speed of acidification in sugarcane fermentation comes from several factors acting together rather than any single cause.

Fresh cane juice is never sterile. It carries wild yeast, lactic acid bacteria and other microorganisms from the plant surface, the field and the processing line, and these organisms begin metabolising sugar immediately, often before a pitched commercial strain has established dominance. Studies of traditional cachaça fermentation in Brazil have consistently found Lactobacillus species, particularly L. plantarum and L. casei, present in high numbers throughout fermentation, alongside the dominant Saccharomyces cerevisiae population. In small amounts, this lactic acid activity is not necessarily a defect. It can contribute organic acids and precursor compounds that support ester formation later in the process. In larger amounts, it accelerates acidification well beyond what the pitched yeast can comfortably tolerate.

The composition of the juice compounds the effect. Sugarcane juice is rich in glucose, fructose and sucrose, all directly fermentable without the enzymatic breakdown that grain starches require. Fermentation begins immediately and proceeds quickly, and faster metabolic activity produces acid faster.

Cane juice also offers little resistance to these changes. Grape must and beer wort both contain compounds, tartaric acid in one case, malted grain proteins in the other, that act as natural buffers, absorbing some of the acid produced during fermentation before it affects the pH of the whole system. Cane juice largely lacks this. A recent study comparing ten sugarcane genotypes found significant variation in buffering capacity between varieties, linked to differences in the nitrogenous compounds, amino acids and peptides naturally present in the juice, but even the higher performing varieties buffer far less effectively than a grape must or a mashed cereal grain.

Temperature adds a further multiplier. Chiang Dao's climate keeps ambient fermentation temperatures warm for most of the year, and warmer conditions accelerate both the fermentation itself and the acid producing activity of contaminating organisms. Sugarcane fermentation, in short, does not simply ferment faster than other substrates. It acidifies faster, and the two effects reinforce one another.



The Shape of the Curve

In practice, the pH of a sugarcane fermentation follows a recognisable pattern rather than a straight line. It typically begins in the mildly acidic range, drops sharply through the first day and a half, and then continues to decline more gradually as fermentation proceeds. Across our own fermentations, it is common to see pH fall by close to a full unit within the first forty eight hours.


Line chart showing pH decline over 96 hours in sugarcane fermentation, comparing a commercial yeast strain (Lallemand RM), which levels off near pH 3.5, against a wild or mixed fermentation, which continues falling below pH 3.0. A dotted line marks the 3.3 stall point for the commercial strain.
Figure 1. A representative pH curve for commercial-strain and wild fermentations of fresh sugarcane juice.

The precise numbers vary by cane variety, season and yeast strain, but the shape of the curve is more informative than any single reading. A steep early decline is normal and expected. A decline that continues past a certain point without levelling off is the signal that the fermentation is heading somewhere the yeast cannot follow.



When the Drop Goes Too Far

Once pH falls below the range a given yeast strain tolerates well, performance suffers in a fairly predictable sequence. The yeast comes under increasing metabolic stress, fermentation slows, and sugar conversion becomes incomplete.

We work primarily with Lallemand RM, a strain developed specifically for sugarcane juice fermentation, and in our experience it tends to stall around pH 3.3, close to the lower boundary of the strain's published functional range. What makes this outcome easy to miss is that the fermentation can still smell entirely clean at this point. There is no obvious fault, no off aroma, nothing that would prompt concern on smell alone. And yet a meaningful proportion of the available sugar can remain unconverted. The fermentation looks finished. It has, in fact, stopped short.

For a distillery, this translates directly into lost yield. Every fermentation that stalls early at pH 3.3 is converting less sugar into alcohol than the same juice was capable of producing, and it does so without any obvious warning sign beyond the pH reading itself.



Yeast Tolerance and the Critical Threshold

Published research on Saccharomyces cerevisiae fermentation gives a fairly consistent picture of the pH ranges involved, generally placing peak ethanol production somewhere between pH 4.0 and 5.5 depending on strain and substrate, with several studies identifying 4.5 to 5.0 as the point of maximum efficiency for sugarcane and molasses substrates specifically. Performance begins to decline as pH drops toward 3.5 to 4.0, and most standard strains show sharply reduced activity below pH 3.3, with severe inhibition setting in below roughly pH 3.0.

Lallemand RM, the strain used for our Blanc, is formulated to operate across a wider range than a general purpose wine or beer yeast, roughly pH 3.3 to 5.3, precisely because it was developed for the more acidic, faster moving environment of cane juice fermentation. Even so, the lower edge of that range behaves less like a gentle slope than a threshold. As pH approaches 3.3, activity does not decline gradually. It falls away quickly, often within a matter of hours, once the fermentation crosses that point.


Line chart showing relative yeast activity as a percentage across a pH range from 2.5 to 6.0. Activity peaks near 100 percent between pH 4.0 and 5.0, the shaded optimal range, and drops sharply below pH 3.3, marked with a dotted line.
Figure 2. Relative Saccharomyces cerevisiae activity across the fermentation pH range, showing the optimal band and the lower stall threshold.

The practical implication is that in sugarcane fermentation, the limiting factor is frequently not sugar availability or temperature control, both relatively easy to manage, but the chemical environment the yeast is being asked to work within.



Wild Yeast and the Limits of Survival

Wild yeast populations behave differently from the commercial strains distilleries typically pitch, and the distinction matters. In our own wild and mixed fermentations, pH has been recorded falling below 3.0, occasionally as low as 2.9, conditions that would stop most commercial strains well before that point. Fermentation continues under these conditions, but at a considerably reduced pace. Around pH 3.2, activity in these fermentations begins to decline noticeably, and the final stages of sugar conversion can stretch out over weeks rather than days.

This is worth stating plainly, because it is easy to mistake for a positive sign: a fermentation still active at low pH is not automatically a healthy one. It may simply be driven by a different, more acid tolerant population of organisms than the one originally pitched, converting sugar slowly and unpredictably rather than efficiently. Survival at low pH and productive fermentation at low pH are not the same thing.



Buffering Capacity, and Why Cane Juice Has So Little of It

Buffering capacity is the property that allows a liquid to resist changes in pH when acid is produced within it. It is the reason a grape must can absorb the acid generated during fermentation without its pH collapsing, and the reason a well buffered mash in whisky or beer production tends to hold a more stable pH throughout fermentation than a comparable volume of sugarcane juice.

This is also where sugarcane fermentation differs most sharply from other spirit traditions, and where the least is generally understood by distillers working with it for the first time. Sugarcane juice has comparatively little intrinsic buffering. As lactic and other organic acids accumulate during fermentation, there is relatively little in the juice itself to absorb that acid and slow the resulting drop in pH. Once acidification begins, it tends to continue largely unchecked until something, either the exhaustion of fermentable sugar or the failure of the yeast, brings it to a stop.

Research comparing sugarcane genotypes has shown that buffering capacity is not fixed across all cane. It varies meaningfully between varieties, and appears to be linked to differences in the nitrogenous compounds, amino acids, peptides and polypeptides naturally present in the juice. Varieties with higher concentrations of these compounds show measurably greater resistance to pH change during fermentation than varieties with lower concentrations, both before and after fermentation. This has a direct practical implication for any distillery working with named cane varieties rather than a single generic feedstock: the choice of cane is not only a question of sugar yield or aromatic character, it is also, quietly, a question of how stable the resulting fermentation will be.

Because this buffering is weak to begin with, small interventions have an outsized effect. This is why the correction methods available to distillers, discussed below, work in modest increments rather than large corrective doses. A cane juice fermentation offers little resistance either to acidification or to correction, and both need to be handled accordingly.



Measuring pH With Any Confidence

None of the above is useful without accurate measurement. A digital pH meter, calibrated regularly and used consistently, is the only method precise enough to track a fermentation reliably. pH strips have a place for a fast, rough check, but they are difficult to read accurately in a dark or turbid wash and are not precise enough to catch a fermentation approaching a critical threshold before it crosses it.

Timing matters more than frequency. The readings that matter most are taken before pitching, within the first twelve to twenty four hours, and at least daily through the active phase of fermentation. A single reading tells you where the fermentation is. A series of readings tells you where it is going, which is the more useful piece of information.


Managing pH in Practice

Managing pH successfully is less about hitting a specific target number and more about keeping the fermentation within a workable range for as long as it needs to be there. In practice, this means close attention in the early stages, when the direction of the fermentation is being set, rather than intervention late, once a problem has already taken hold.

We measure frequently once fermentation begins, typically every few hours through the first day, and intervene early if the drop looks steeper than the fermentation can sustain, generally within the first eighteen hours. This window matters because a fermentation that has already shifted too far becomes considerably harder to correct without introducing new variables of its own, additional volume, altered mineral balance, or disrupted microbial activity that was otherwise functioning normally.



Correcting pH That Has Drifted Too Far

In sugarcane fermentation, the more common problem by some distance is pH falling too low rather than climbing too high. When it does, the sequence is predictable: fermentation slows, sugar is left unconverted and yeast activity declines.


Mild alkaline buffers, most commonly potassium carbonate or potassium bicarbonate, are the standard correction. Because sugar based fermentations have so little natural buffering capacity of their own, even modest additions have a noticeable effect, and the correction should be made gradually rather than as a single large dose. An abrupt correction can destabilise a fermentation just as effectively as the original drop in pH, simply in the opposite direction. In our experience, these adjustments influence yield far more than they influence aromatic character. Buffering pH back into a workable range allows fermentation to complete more fully, but it does not meaningfully alter the flavour profile the fermentation was already developing.

The opposite problem, pH remaining too high, is less common in cane juice fermentation but not unheard of. Here the risk shifts toward bacterial contamination and a slower, less clean onset of fermentation. In most cases, the natural acidification that occurs as fermentation gets underway is sufficient on its own to bring pH into a workable range without any additional intervention. As a general principle, it is more effective, and less disruptive, to guide a fermentation early than to correct one that has already gone too far in either direction.



Cane Variety, Harvest Timing and Seasonal Variation

The starting pH of a fermentation is shaped well before the yeast is ever pitched, by the cane itself and by how it was handled after cutting. Different sugarcane varieties produce juice with meaningfully different starting pH. Across our own harvest records, Suphanburi 50 typically presses out at around pH 5.5, while Yak Kiew tends to start closer to pH 4.8, a difference large enough to change how a fermentation of either variety needs to be managed from the outset.


Starting pH also drifts through the course of a single harvest season, generally trending downward as the season progresses, and any delay between cutting and pressing compounds this further, since microbial activity on the cut cane begins before the juice ever reaches the fermenter. This creates a genuine trade off for anyone selecting harvest timing. The point of maximum sugar content in a given field does not always coincide with the point of most favourable starting pH, and in some cases it is worth harvesting slightly earlier, accepting marginally lower sugar, in exchange for a fermentation that starts from a more workable position.



What This Means Beyond the Fermenter

None of this is simply a production detail with no bearing on what ends up in the glass. A fermentation that stalls at pH 3.3 has not just lost yield. It has stopped short of expressing everything the cane and the yeast were capable of producing together, and the spirit distilled from it, however clean it may smell in the fermenter, is distilled from a less complete conversion than it could have been.


For consumers and trade buyers trying to make sense of Thai sugarcane spirits as a category, this is one of the quieter distinctions between industrial and craft production. Large scale ethanol and commercial rum production generally manages pH aggressively, often chemically, specifically to protect yield at any cost. Craft producers working with fresh, unstandardised cane juice, of the kind used in agricultural rum and in single estate sugarcane spirits, are working with a substrate that resists that kind of aggressive control, and have to understand its behaviour rather than simply overriding it. The resulting spirit reflects that difference. A rhum agricole style spirit made from fresh cane juice carries a range of aromatic complexity that is much harder to obtain from standardised molasses fermented under tightly buffered, industrial conditions, precisely because the fermentation itself has more room to move, for better and for worse.


This is also, incidentally, one of the reasons single estate expressions vary meaningfully from one harvest to another and one field to another. Cane variety and harvest timing genuinely change the starting conditions of fermentation, and a distillery that tracks and responds to those changes, rather than standardising them away, is choosing to let that variation show up in the finished spirit rather than eliminating it before it reaches the still.



KEY TAKEAWAYS FOR DISTILLERS

  • pH is not a passive reading. It actively determines yeast survival, bacterial competition, fermentation speed and flavour development.

  • Fresh sugarcane juice acidifies faster than grain or grape substrates because it is nutrient rich, microbially active from the moment of extraction, and poorly buffered.

  • Commercial strains bred for cane juice, such as Lallemand RM, typically stall around pH 3.3. Fermentation can appear clean and complete while sugar remains unconverted.

  • Wild yeast tolerates lower pH than commercial strains but does so slowly, not efficiently. Continued activity at low pH is not the same as healthy fermentation.

  • Buffering capacity in cane juice is inherently weak and varies by variety. Small corrections made early are more effective than large corrections made late.

  • The first twelve to eighteen hours after pitching are the most important window for monitoring and, if necessary, intervening.


Conclusion

pH in sugarcane fermentation is not a static number to be recorded once and forgotten. It moves throughout fermentation, and it shapes nearly everything else that happens inside the fermenter: how the yeast performs, which bacteria compete for the same sugar, which flavour compounds develop, and whether the fermentation reaches genuine completion.


Understanding pH is less about correcting problems after the fact and more about recognising, early and consistently, how a given fermentation is behaving and guiding it toward a result the cane is actually capable of producing. In an emerging category like Thai sugarcane spirits, where fresh cane juice fermentation is still comparatively rare and rarely documented in detail, that kind of close attention to the fermentation itself, rather than to the finished spirit alone, is what begins to separate genuinely terroir driven production from spirits that simply carry a sugarcane label.



Related Reading

Wild Fermentation in Practice


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